Tag: seafood

The Ideal Da Nang Beach Vacation

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Even if you love adventure, sometime you just want to have a relaxing beach holiday and let the stress wash away. I found the best of both worlds in Vietnam – culture, sightseeing, food, adventure AND great weather, beaches and luxury.

Da Nang was the perfect place to stop and rest a few days to do nothing except chill out by the pool and beach and most importantly RELAX. My Khe Beach which runs a long way down the coast of Da Nang was rated by Forbes as one of the world’s most attractive beaches.

Top Tip for a Da Nang Beach Vacation:

Choose where to stay carefully – the beach here is beautiful and you can find resorts and hotels all along it however some are quite far away from anything else of interest. If you want seclusion this might be wonderful but if you don’t want to rely solely on your resort and hotel for everything you may want to find somewhere more central to stay.

Where to stay:

We stayed at Paris Deli Danang Beach Hotel but you can find tons of great options on Booking.com. Paris Deli has relatively affordable premier seafront rooms with bathtubs and Japanese toilets plus there is a daily included buffet breakfast. The hotel also has a rooftop pool overlooking the ocean.

We chose this hotel because it is across the road from the beach, has a nice pool and therefore a resort-feel while still being walking distance from many restaurants and bars and the Dragon Bridge.

Getting there and away:

Da Nang is a large city with a busy airport so its very easy to get here from any city in Vietnam. There are multiple flights a day from Hanoi and Ho Chi Min City. Da Nang Train Station also has trains travelling the length of the country.

Getting around:

We chose a hotel right by the beach as we wanted to be able to come back and forth from here with ease however if you are staying further away taxi’s and private drivers are readily available and affordable. If you would like to visit the river and the dragon bridge (the light show at 9pm on the weekends is a highlight) its only about a 30 minute relaxed walk from the part of the beach we stayed at.

Food and Drink:

  1. Esco Beach – This beach bar was right across the road from our hotel and we spent a LOT of time here. Great cocktails, happy hour, an infinity pool overlooking the ocean, comfy seating and to top it all off they have a fire show most nights at 9:30pm with some amazing performers.
  2. Moc Quan Seafood – This is a fantastic seafood restaurant very close to the beach but more of a local haunt with more reasonable prices. Expect to have to queue for a while – it can get very busy but there is lots of space inside. For those with kids they have a small children’s play area which is a bonus.
  3. Paris Deli Danang Beach Hotel – If you are staying here the hotel food is actually quite decent and affordable so there isn’t much reason to leave! There is also no added surcharge for room service so go crazy and just order in. The Pho and the Club sandwich are particularly good.
  4. Bladi Restaurant – This is a Moroccan restaurant which will suit you if you are a bit tired of the local cuisine. The food was excellent and the waiter was quite rude (entertainingly so). Its a bit pricey though with very small portions.
  5. Mỹ An Garden Coffee – A very local and affordable spot for coffee. It’s a nice escape from the heat with a lovely little garden and pond.

What to expect:

Expect to do nothing and just see where the day takes you.

If you do need something else to do other than just spend time at the beach and in the city, there are some great day trips you can take. You could visit Hoi An (see my post here on Hoi An); Sunworld Amusement Park (see my post here on Sunworld); My Son Sanctuary or take a road trip around Son Tra peninsula.

Erika xx

Itinerary: 3 days on Santa Cruz Island

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Santa Cruz Island is the main inhabited island in the Galapagos Islands. It’s main town Puerto Ayora is warm, charming, very walkable and home to so much wildlife you will feel like you don’t even need to venture further afield (until you see the rest of the Galapagos!).

GENERAL INFO

See my post here on travelling the Galapagos Islands for general information about the Galapagos.

As always, I recommend comparing accomodation and prices on booking.com. We stayed at Hostal Vista al Mar which was lovely and right next to Laguna de las Ninfas.

It’s also worth mentioning that if you need to get to or from Seymour Airport that this is on a different island. Commuting here requires taking the airport shuttle from the airport, then a water taxi over to Santa Cruz, then a taxi or bus into Puerto Ayora (or the reverse to get to the airport).

SUGGESTED ACTIVITIES

Visit the Charles Darwin Research Station

Here you can observe the Galapagos Giant Tortoise and learn about the Galapagos Tortoises. The Research station also functions as a breeding centre so you will see tortoise babies also!

Have Dinner on Fish Fry Road

This is a collection of street food stalls selling and cooking fresh seafood. Head here for dinner and a beer. It’s pretty touristy but still more affordable than eating at a restaurant (and the seafood is amazing!).

Snorkel and Swim at Las Grietas

Las Grietas is a calm, deep inland lagoon where you can swim and snorkel. There isn’t a huge amount of wildlife here but if you snorkel you can see some big fish and it’s a cool place to explore.

To get here, take a water taxi to Punta Estrada/Las Grietas. Once dropped off there is a clearly marked path along the boardwalk and past some pink salt flats. Follow the path until it ends at Las Grietas (a 15 minute walk). There are 3 pools in the lagoon. You can carefully climb over the rocks at the end of the first pool into the second and then again over more rocks for the third pool (or dive down and swim through the underwater cave). There are often lots of fish swimming in this third pool (when it’s quiet). To get back to Puerto Ayora wave down one of the water taxis waiting offshore. 

Sit at the waterfront after dark

If you wait patiently you will see nocturnal marine animals attracted to the lights shining in the water along the waterfront. It’s calm and peaceful and even better if you bring a beer and take some time to relax under the stars or walk along the waterfront.

Visit the Fish Market

The best time to go to the Puerto Ayora Fish Market to see the action is 4pm. You can watch the local fisherman bringing in their catch and see the animals it attracts. The market gets swamped by birds, pelicans and sea lions hoping for a freebie. From late afternoon a little barbeque stand will cook any of the fresh fish for you.

Walk through Laguna de las Ninfas

Laguna de las Ninfas is a quiet estuary surrounded by 3 different types of mangroves and many birds. Its a very short walk from the pier (less than 15 minutes). Make sure to take some insect repellant.

Hike to Playa Tortuga

The hike to Playa Tortuga is short and relatively easy (apart from the extreme heat – I suggest going early in the morning) and the reward is well worth the trip. There are a couple of beaches here – the first is stunning and filled with marine iguanas but is too dangerous for swimming and there is also a calm lagoon for swimming in.

To get here, walk all the way to the west end of Charles Binford Street. At the end of the street there is a staircase up a short hill where the kiosk is to sign in and enter the park (it opens at 6am). There are no toilets at the beach so go here if needed. You will then walk along an easy, flat cobblestone path for about 40 mins. At the end of this path, turn right and walk for approximately 15 minutes and you will have reached Playa Tortuga. Continue up the sand another 1 km or so and you will find a beautiful shaded lagoon half hidden behind the last section of beach. The walk is approximately 1 hour 30 minutes each way.

Erika xx

Visiting La Casa en el Agua

La Casa en el Agua is a boutique hostel that is situated on a rock in the middle of the ocean (well not quite but it does feel that way) with a cult following. Some travellers even get La Casa en el Agua tattoos after staying here. Its a destination in itself and I highly recommend spending a night here if you are in the area. I would recommend La Casa en el Agua over visiting Playa Blanca or any of the other islands near Cartagena (They are a bit over-touristed – this is gimmicky but still a unique experience!)

In the water at the hostel

Top Tip for La Casa en el Agua:

Book early! Their calendar opens 3 months in advance and you will need to book at this time to get a spot – particularly if you want one of their very limited private rooms. Hammocks are a little easier to come by.

Getting there and away:

Transport to Casa en el Agua is via a sister company that transports those staying at La Casa en el Agua directly to the hostel from the port of Cartagena. The boat travels daily at 9am to the hostel and leaves at 12pm (arrives back in Cartagena at 2pm) so you need to make your travel plans within these timeframes.

IMPORTANT NOTE: You can only take 8kg of luggage on the boat so you will need to store your luggage somewhere in Cartagena. The majority of hotels will be happy to look after this for you for free even if they don’t have a designated luggage storage area. I have never had an issue storing my luggage.

Peter choosing our dinner fresh from the sea

Food:

As the hostel is in the middle of nowhere – they do have a monopoly on food options. Breakfast is included in your stay, and they have amazing fresh seafood available for lunch and dinner (plus a vegetarian option). They also have snacks available but I suggest bringing some of your own (note there is no fridge or kitchen facilities available to guests).

One of their key rules is you cannot bring booze into the hostel. The hostel has a bartender and sells relatively affordable cocktails but costs soon rack up if you lie around drinking all day. Allow for this in your budget.

Jumping in

Activities:

There are definitely enough activities to last you a day or two here. The place is small but there are outdoor hammocks and couches for you to read or chill out on, some floaties and balancing games in the water, a ladder to climb up and jump off the side of the house; snorkels and kayaks to go exploring, and plenty of clear blue water around the hostel for swimming.

There are also a few organised tours and activities that are worth doing – the hostel runs a plankton tour at night to see the phosphorescent plankton in the area and also takes a small group over to the nearby island of Santa Cruz del Islote which is a tiny man made island and one of the worlds most densely populated places. It’s a great example of traditional Colombian life.

Have you been to La Casa en el Agua? Let me know what you thought!

Erika xx

Itinerary: Explore Guajira in 3 days

The Guajira Peninsula is an incredibly off-the-beaten track area of Colombia: so much so that it doesn’t even have a track. The area is very remote and the region is the poorest in Colombia so it can be a difficult place to visit and you will need to put up with a lack of creature comforts.

When I first visited the region in 2011 – the peninsula and the jumping off point (Cabo de La Vela) were deserted. Although some basic facilities for tourists existed. I only came across 2 travellers in Cabo de La Vela (a photographer and his girlfriend) and no others on the peninsula itself.

In 2019 when I returned, things hadn’t drastically changed. A windsurfing school had opened in Cabo De La Vela which had led to some more accomodation and a few bars and some basic restaurants. The Guajira Peninsula accomodation in hammocks and tour on the back of a truck was now for 10-20 people at a time (rather than just me on my first trip!) and the local women and children had got wise to the fact that they could charge passing trucks a ‘toll’ to drive through their private land.

The landscapes and the region itself are still magical and out of this world. Take a look at my Guajira Photo Essay for more beautiful examples!

Top Tips for visiting La Guajira:

  1. Pack really light! You don’t want to be lugging your suitcase or large backpack around this region. You are constantly on the move between locations, usually in the back of a truck or in a boat with limited space in the hot sun. On our latest trip here we left our bags at our hotel in Santa Marta and packed the bare minimum for our few days in La Guajira.
  2. Buy a Wayuu Mochila bag. The local Wayuu people make beautiful woven bags in a really unique style. Due to the region’s remoteness these bags sell online/in tourist stores in Colombia for a pretty penny. There is a lot of work involved in creating them and the local people see almost none of these profits. You will see locals selling these bags in Cabo De La Vela town for a much cheaper rate and you will know the money goes entirely to them!

Where to stay:

You aren’t spoilt with choice for accomodation options in Cabo de la Vela or the Guajira Peninsula. You can sleep in a hammock outside or in Cabo de La Vela you sometimes have the option of a very basic room. Showers are only cold water bucket showers and you also flush toilets using a bucket of water. Be prepared for this!

Its all part of the experience as long as its not for your whole trip. We love sleeping in a hammock on occasion – in Cabo De La Vela you are right next to the water on the beach! You also get a lockable shack to get changed in and store your stuff.

Expect to look like this by the end of your journey:

No showers or mirrors – but cute puppies!

Getting there and away:

I’m not going to lie – getting to La Guajira is a PAIN. But the journey is all a part of the adventure right? You can probably book a tour in advance from Cartagena or Santa Marta but how I have done it in the past is by getting to Cuatro Vias (a crossroads in rural Colombia), or Uribia and making my way from there. You’ll need at least some basic spanish to do it this way. At this point you can get on a much cheaper tour for both Cabo de La Vela and the Guajira Peninsula if you get offered one; or be able to find transport direct to Cabo de La Vela.You will be able to book an overnight tour from there to the Peninsula. You can only get to the peninsula itself with a tour.

To get to Cuatro Vias: Take a bus from Santa Marta bus station that terminates at Maicao and get off at Quatro Vias (a crossroads in the middle of nowhere – don’t second guess yourself – its the right stop). The bus will take you 4-5 hours so get started early in the morning. This crossroads heads in 4 completely different directions so it has become a bit of a meeting place for the area with market stalls and vehicles going in different directions. From here, someone will ask you where you are going and will arrange a full tour with you (through their guy in one of the nearby towns) or you can get in a taxi/mototaxi which will take you to the trucks carrying supplies and people leaving from Uribia. There may even be transport around heading direct to Cabo de La Vela. The trip to Cabo de La Vela will take you a few more hours depending on your transport – you may have to wait for the trucks to fill up.

Past Uribia your only transport is via motorbike or trucks as the roads turn to dirt tracks.

Transport on Guajira Peninsula

Your tour to the tip of the peninsula will only be for 1 day/night. Most tour operators will let you stay on another if you wish and you will just be able to pay the accomodation another night directly. However, there is not much to do in the area without transportation and you will have visited all the tourist spots on the truck the day before so 1 night is probably enough. After your night in the peninsula you will likely be transported directly back to Uribia, Riohacha or even Santa Marta so make sure you spend all the time in Cabo de la Vela that you want to before heading over to the peninsula.

Getting around:

You will probably be on a tour – in this case your tour will take you everywhere you may want to go. If not, there you can find moto-taxi’s to bring you to and from your destination or if you are up for it most places are only a hike away through the hot desert. Pilon de Azucar is a great spot to visit around Cabo de La Vela, as is El Faro for sunset.

If you arrive in Cabo de la Vela without a tour and want to get over to the peninsula (and trust me you do!) You can ask your accomodation and they will be able to find a tour going or know of someone in the small town that can arrange this for you.

Playa Pilon

Food:

A word from the wise – food is actually pretty expensive here compared to the rest of Colombia. There are no shops except for a corner store or two that sell cold drinks for very expensive prices. I suggest stocking up on snacks at a supermarket in Santa Marta before you come. I would also bring all the bottled water you will need during your trip as that is pretty hard to come by also!

I also suggest bringing some extra snacks and water for the locals. Especially once you get to the peninsula you can really see the poverty here and the locals find it really hard to access and afford food and water other than seafood. Try to avoid the ‘sweet tax’ from the local kids and give them something a little more filling and nutritious instead.

Meals are made at your accomodation – or at anyone else’s! Almost every shack along the beach will serve you food. Your options are usually fresh whole fried fish or lobster. If you are vegetarian or have any sort of dietaries good luck. The fish is amazingly fresh and tasty and the lobster is cheaper and fresher than you will find elsewhere. Enjoy the delicacy while its available!

What to bring:

  1. Lots of snacks and water
  2. Long sleeved top and pants or leggings that can double as pyjamas as you will be a lot cooler at night in the hammock
  3. Beach cover up or sarong to keep out of the sun
  4. Swimming togs
  5. Sunblock
  6. Silk sleeping bag or a light blanket for the hammock or to cushion your seat on the truck.
  7. A camera

What to expect:

Expect to experience total wilderness – I’m not sure there are many places left around the world that feel this untouched. Soak it all in and enjoy the ride (even if your butt hurts from all that bumping around on the back of a truck and even if you haven’t showered in a week)!

Erika xx