Visiting Valle de Cocora in Salento

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The hike to Valle De Cocora is gorgeous, easy going and leads to one of the most beautiful locations I have ever seen with some fun stops along the way. Getting to Salento is a bit tricky as its a bit out of the way into Colombia’s interior but everything is a bit of a distance in Colombia and this stop is definitely worth the journey!

Moody Views

Colombia’s national tree – The Wax Palm

Where to stay:

We stayed at El Viajero Hostel – its clean, comfortable, centrally located and has great views. It also isn’t a party hostel but is friendly – we met some really nice people to hang with there which is important when you are travelling alone or in a couple for a long period of time!

Getting there and away:

Salento is quite out of the way but the closest major town is Armenia and you should be able to catch a bus from many places in Colombia to arrive at the Armenia bus station. We travelled to Armenia from Medellin on an overnight bus (the trip was 10:30pm to 5:30am). You can also get to/from Cali in 4-5 hours by bus (this is where we headed next).

To transfer to Salento once you have reached Armenia, walk inside the bus terminal and up two flights of stairs – continue straight in the same direction until you reach the end of the terminal and walk outside to where the local buses run. Buses to Salento should be waiting here (there is a sign but easy to miss). The transfer costs 4,000 COP approx. and takes around 1 hour (buses start running at 5:20am every 20 mins).

Getting around:

Its easy to get around Salento as you can walk from one end of town to the other in about 20 minutes. It’s not large!

If you want to head out to Valle de Cocora (and who doesn’t???) you can take a ‘Willy’ (pictured below) from the main square.

Food:

Coffee coffee and more coffee! Definitely drink Coffee! Salento is in one of the coffee growing regions in Colombia and is a great place to learn, make, taste and purchase coffee.

Other than that the food wasn’t particularly memorable – there’s lots of places to eat around town.

My morning coffee at our hostel in Salento (honourable mention to that VIEW!

What to expect on your hike:

Make sure to head into the main square early in case you need to wait as the jeeps do fill up. You pay for a return ride at the beginning so when finishing the hike you can hop on any jeep to get back into town. Willys cost about 8,000 COP return. 

Directions to hike Counterclockwise:
Turn right at the blue gate and follow the path down the hill. This track takes you past the trout farm (which is not worth stopping at) and starts off un-inspiring through paddocks.
BUT then you enter the cloud forest and you cross 7 Puentes which is gorgeous. The hummingbird sanctuary Acaime (5,000COP entry) is a long walk off the main route (about 2 hours into the hike) but is definitely worth going to and signs direct you here. Entry includes a hot chocolate. On the way back from Acaime do not take the first right as this is a long hike heading somewhere different. The loop ends  with La Montana and the wax palms.

All going well this should be a leisurely 6 hour walk.

What to bring on your hike:

  • Some cash for your entry to Acaime (There are a couple of ATMs in Salento)
  • A rain jacket (The weather changes fast here and you will be heading up into the mountains)
  • Hiking boots – its not a difficult hike but its pretty long
  • Comfortable, warm, clothes
  • Directions as above – this hike is NOT well signposted
  • Food and water – Acaime is really just a stop for the hummingbirds – make sure you stock up with some snacks and water in Salento.
  • A camera to photograph the hike, hummingbirds and the incredible trees. 
Ready to go!

Other activities while you’re in Salento

Salento’s drawcard isn’t only the hike. It’s a great place to chill out for a day or two. The locals and houses are colourful, the town is picturesque and there are a few other cool activities you won’t want to miss.

Tejo is exhilirating! That gunpowder is LOUD when it goes off
  1. Play Tejo – Colombia’s national game which essentially involves throwing targets at gunpowder (Sounds fun right?). Salento is a great place to play as Tejo is very popular here and the nearest local can always direct you to the closest place to play. When we were in Salento a man who we could only deduce was the town Pimp (a short man in a full length fur coat) led us into a dingy basement under a dive bar where we got to play Tejo for free (as long as you are buying beer!). Gunpowder and beer – I would expect nothing less from Colombia’s mountain cowboys. The game is really fun and actually requires a lot of skill.
  2. Take a coffee tour! I recommend Finca el Ocaso. As I mentioned above Salento is within Colombia’s coffee region – and what great coffee it has. Finca el Ocaso is close to the town and a great spot to learn about how coffee is made, issues of production and sustainability and taste test it! You can get here on a willy for 4,000 COP otherwise its a 1 hour walk from town.
  3. Explore the town of Salento – Calle Real is a street filled with interesting shops and places to eat and at night is filled with music and dancing. At the end of this long street you can walk up to Mirador Alto de la Cruz via the colourful stairs and check out the view.

Make the time in your itinerary to head out of the way to Salento – you won’t regret it!

Erika xx

Must See Spots in Colombia

I apologise in advance…this is a loooong list.

Colombia is a big country, but its also filled to the brim with amazing places. I couldn’t possibly reduce this list down at all from here.

This list is a result of 2 trips to Colombia (one in 2011 and 2019). Most of the places in this list I visited in both these trips and the ones I didn’t I regret not going to twice. I would visit all of these areas again in a heartbeat.

Make sure you allow time to visit all of these locations when you go to Colombia – or like me you will have to go back!

Bogota

I have to start with the capital: Bogota is a super cool city – high altitude and chill vibes. Check out its bars and restaurants, find your inner artist in Candelaria or do what the fit locals do and get a workout in by climbing a mountain.

If you want to find out more about Bogota – see my post on my latest trip here.

The colourful streets of Candelaria are a vibe

San Gil and Barichara

Paragliding above San Gil

Go to San Gil for the adventure! Once you have had your fill of white water rafting and paragliding, and you need to give your heart a rest; then do a hike (or catch a taxi) to Barichara – the sweetest little mountain town. The best place to spend some time doing nothing and soaking in the views.

Views from the steep streets of Barichara

Medellin

Medellin has come a long way since its past as the centre of the Colombian drug wars. Its a young, modern, happening university town with a giant market, interesting architecture, some amazing social programs for previously dangerous neighbourhoods and some fun Botero scupltures in the central city. You can even take a really interesting tour about Pablo Escobar.

Botero fun

Cartagena

Ahhh Cartagena – the jewel of Colombia. Don’t come for the beaches – there are much better beaches elsewhere along the Caribbean coast. The colonial city really has that romantic feel and the whole walled area is utterly spectacular.

For a unique experience you can catch a boat from Cartagena and stay at a hostel on a rock in the middle of the ocean (well not quite – the land is pretty close) but its still a wild time! As a bonus – its right next to the most densely populated island in the world Santa Cruz del Islote.

La Casa en el Agua

Guajira Peninsula

La Guajira

La Guajira is so off the beaten track that there is no track. When I first visited in 2011 you could walk for hours and not see another soul. Tourism has hit now – Cabo de la Vela is an epic place to windsurf and there are ‘truckloads’ of tourists a day (not tour buses – literally tours organised on the back of trucks). It still remains very isolated and secluded. There are no roads through most of the desert and no public transport to any of it. In terms of what there is to do. It’s a desert by the beach – the scenery is spectacular everywhere you look.

See here for my post with details on how to travel this tricky region or here for some more inspiration in photos!

Tayrona National Park

Jungle meets beach at Tayrona National Park

You need to hike for a few hours to reach the coast of Tayrona National Park (or take a very terrifying boat) which is what has stopped this park from being overrun with tourists. It’s still pretty busy. There are also minimal facilities when you arrive. You can sleep in a tent or a hammock and just enjoy the tranquility and swimming in the warm Caribbean water.

See my post here for more info on how to visit this amazing national park!

Palomino

Palomino is Colombia’s version of Bali. It has such a cool hippie vibe but is also very touristy despite its tiny size. There are a few beach resort style accomodations if you like that sort of thing. Its a great beach, very family friendly and super close to Cartagena if you only have a short time in Colombia.

Guatape

Views for days! You have to climb up 700 steps to see them though. Are you up for the challenge? The town of Guatape is also brightly coloured and adorable – to see it all you have to do even more walking. Make sure to pack your walking shoes!

Check out my blog post here on visitng Guatape on a day trip from Medellin.

Salento

Cowboys – tick. Coffee – tick. Hiking – tick. Mountains – tick. Palm trees – tick. Hummingbirds – tick. What more could you ask for?

Relax, learn about making really good coffee and see the worlds biggest palm trees on a really nice hike through the forest (even if you don’t like to hike).

Cali and San Cipriano

Come to Cali for Salsa, street hamburgers, and Giant cat sculptures. While you are here, take a trip to San Cipriano – a little village in the middle of the forest with a calm lazy river to raft along and a motorcycle train. If you want some tips on visiting Cali and things to do see my post here.

Ipiales

Ipiales is a horrible town – and I don’t say this lightly. I am someone who takes pride in finding the wonderful about places that others think are dangerous, ugly or boring. But Ipiales literally has nothing going for it. It is an unsafe border town which is dangerous to be out and about in after dark (and by that I mean after 5pm…). There is nothing to eat except for a couple of dirty, horrible takeout joints that serve inedible food (and I love junk food..). Even getting to Ipiales is dangerous (although it is much safer than it used to be).

BUT, it is all worth it to see the most beautiful church I have ever seen in my life. Plus you have to pass through Ipiales if you want to go overland into Ecuador so that is a pretty good reason to visit too. See my post on Las Lajas Sanctuary here for more info.



I have to admit there are still a couple of great places I am yet to visit but desperate to go to. If you have the time I recommend checking out Minca and the San Andreas Islands and letting me know what you think – Im planning to hit these spots up next time I am in the area!

Erika xx