How we spent 2 days in Halong Bay on the Mon Cherie Cruise

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Halong Bay is a bit of a tourist trap – but even so its still an un-missable destination on your trip to Vietnam. This is a post on what we did on our cruise as a big family group (5 adults and 2 very young children – 3 months and 3 years old) on a 2 night 3 day cruise. Hopefully it helps you to select a cruise thats right for you or helps you to figure out if you want to go on the Mon Cherie Cruise as we did.

Top Tips for your Halong Bay Cruise on Mon Cherie:

  1. Try to participate in all the activities – It’s what you are there for and they are great to experience the bay. Yes you can look at the views and relax on the boat but you still have plenty of opportunity to do that AND participate in the activities. The only exception is the swimming on the first day off the boat – its not worth it. Have a bit of a kayak and then head to the pool instead. This activity is easy to cut short as you are based at the boat anyway and its nothing special.
  2. Buy snacks and drinks from the little local boats that pull up alongside the cruise for the experience of it – but make sure to haggle! Also try to get drinks that are cold to begin with as your little mini fridge will struggle to cool them down.
  3. Best time to get in the pool is after your day of activities just on or before happy hour – get a drink by the pool, hop in the cool water and watch the sun go down.
  4. Don’t order anything at the cruise port just because you are waiting around – its very overpriced and you don’t want it. Once you get on the cruise you will be served a huge lunch anyway.

Getting there and away:

Halong bay is 3 hours drive from Hanoi. Your cruise will probably offer transfer from Hanoi but it won’t be included in the price of the cruise. I don’t recommend booking this if you are a larger group as the price is per person and its not a private transfer so they will likely still pick up or drop off other people and you will need to wait around for that.

We arranged one way private transfers because we wanted to get to Halong Bay from Ninh Binh (3-4 hours drive) so as not to backtrack. I highly recommend a private transfer because you want to make sure you don’t miss your cruise boarding time and this will drop you door to door. However, buses are an option from both Hanoi and Ninh Binh. Your hotel can arrange private transfer for you or for transfer from Ninh Binh you can also contact Ninh Binh Tourist Center (I cannot recommend them enough the driver had some English and was happy to do an extra stop when my toddler decided she needed the bathroom in the middle of nowhere).

Getting around:

You will spend a lot of time on a smaller day boat going to activities and to and from the main boat when boarding and disembarking the cruise. I did expect this but I didn’t expect how much travel time on the boat itself we would have. Sure you can laze around in the sun but make sure to bring a book or a tablet with movies or games (particularly for children) for when you want to hide out inside.

Food:

Many of the reviews mention the food on the cruises isn’t great. We thought it was pretty fantastic on the Mon Cherie. It’s not exactly gourmet dining and its not exactly traditional Vietnamese cuisine so don’t expect too much! However it is usually a buffet with Western Asian fusion (and lots of seafood). They also served a la carte on occasion with LOTS of courses so if you don’t like something there is still enough food. The vegetarian in our group was served individual dishes that covered their dietary requirements and our 3 year old was also served a children’s menu. Both could then still approach the buffet for items they were interested in.

There was definitely enough food for everyone also although a lot of the luxury items ran out quite quickly (ie. lobster, lychees).

What to bring:

For Yourself:

  1. A reusable water bottle: the Nalgene water bottle is a great size. There is filtered water provided on the boat but you need something to fill up for activities and in your room.
  2. A digital camera with a great lens. The views are phenomenal.
  3. A sarong – great for wearing out on excursions and using as a towel to dry off and also perfect for wearing up to the bar if you are going to have your cocktail in the pool.
  4. Packing Cells – you are only on the boat for 2 nights so don’t waste time unpacking. Keep everything organised in your suitcase instead.

For Young Children:

  1. children’s lifejackets – the ones available are quite large and your child won’t want to wear them. This way they can be comfortable and safe all trip.
  2. A tablet to keep them occupied during transfers and if they get bored at mealtimes.
  3. Toys that will keep them occupied – the boat has everything else needed but no toys or activities for kids. I love the Melissa and Doug magic painting and Melissa and Doug reusable sticker books.
  4. Also take some snacks on board with you – meals are huge but little kids eat a lot more regularly and you will need snacks on hand.

What to expect:

DAY 1

On the first day we waited around at the dock for a while then boarded a small boat which transported us to the Mon Cherie. Here, we had a safety briefing and some information provided about the cruise. Once arriving on the main boat we were served a welcome drink (watermelon juice) and lunch. After lunch, we did a short kayak (from the boat so when you felt tired you could just turn around and come back) and then swum from the side of the boat. This was a pretty disappointing activity as the itinerary was for a visit to Dark and Light Cave and the water around the boat wasn’t exactly the mostly exciting or clean for swimming.

After our swim right next to the boat we headed up to the bar for happy hour and some complimentary snacks were offered. Then we had a cooking class where we learned to make fresh Vietnamese spring rolls before dinner.

After dinner there was squid fishing available off the side of the boat which was apparently pretty fun (I didn’t participate).

DAY 2

After a leisurely breakfast we were transferred from our main cruise onto a day boat which was nice with lots of lounging areas. This boat took us to Cat Ba Island where we visited Viet Hai Village (you could take an electric car or bicycle here through the rice fields from the boat). Here we had a walk around and had some fish eat the dead skin off our feet (barf). Lunch was served on the day boat.

In the afternoon, we visited a stunning cove and beach where we could relax and swim. This was the highlight of the cruise for me and what we expected of Halong Bay. We had to kayak to the beach from the day boat which wasn’t noted in the original itinerary but it was a very easy kayak and you could use the kayak to explore the area further if you so desired.

We arrived back on the cruise in time for happy hour and a dip in the pool while the sun went down. Again there was a cooking class, this time we made fried spring rolls and then dinner was served.

DAY 3

Today we were due to disembark the cruise. The itinerary included a quick stop via a small boat and then a bus to visit Trung Trang Cave. This was a walk through a cave on Cat Ba Island that has beautiful stalactites. It was nice to be in a forest area for a short while to escape the heat of Vietnam. After this whirlwind visit we returned to the boat to have brunch and check out before transferring back to a seperate boat to return to the port for midday.

I hope this post helps to show you the realities of a Halong Bay cruise or specifically a cruise on the Mon Cherie.

Erika xx

Itinerary: 2 days in Ninh Binh

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Ninh Binh is known as the Halong Bay on Land and when you arrive you can see why! Particularly around June (when we were here) Ninh Binh and its surrounds are lush, green, hot and beautiful with touches of bright yellow and dramatic limestone cliffs adding to the endless gorgeous rice fields and rivers. It reminded me a lot of rural Bali (but better!). It’s a great place for endless outdoor adventures.

GENERAL INFO

Getting there and away:

Ninh Binh is an easy hop skip and a jump from Hanoi. The best way to get here is via train and it only takes 2-3 hours from Hanoi Old Town to Ninh Binh. All the good stuff in Ninh Binh is somewhat rural so you will then need to get a taxi to Tam Coc or the nearby area that you are staying in but your accomodation will be able to arrange pickup for you for approximately 200,000 VND.

From Ninh Binh we visited Halong Bay. There are no trains in this direction but you can catch a bus or organise private transport. If you are on your own or in a couple your cruise may offer the best price for a car (bear in mind you will likely be sharing with others) but for a group you should book through your accomodation or through Ninh Binh Tourist Center.

Accommodation:

We decided to stay right in Tam Coc as then we could walk to get food, cash, beers etc. easily. There are plenty of places to stay here but we stayed at Tam Coc Marina Villa which is very centrally located; newly built; has some nice places to relax and recover and has very attentive helpful staff.

Food:

Tam Coc town has plenty of cheap local options for food – all local food in Vietnam is pretty great but most of these don’t stand out in any way. We did really enjoy a meal at Father Cooking – on the corner of the main road just across from the Tam Coc Wharf.

Getting around:

The attractions around Ninh Binh are quite spread out and therefore its best to hire a car and driver to get to most of them. Ninh Binh Tourist Center can arrange this for you in advance for a reasonable price.

For the closer locations, you can also hire bicycles. Tam Coc town itself is easily walkable.

Top Tip:

Allow for some downtime here in Ninh Binh. All the activities are exhausting – either physically demanding or out in the sunshine for long hours. I would limit to 2 locations/activities a day so that you don’t wear yourself out!

SUGGESTED ACTIVITIES

Trang An Landscape Complex

Trang An Landscape Complex is a scenic boat trip that goes through limestone caves and past temples (you can get out of the boat and explore). The trip takes 2-3 hours and costs 250,000 VND per person (children under 1 metre free). There are 3 different routes – I suggest taking Route 3 as this goes through the longest cave and also past the very beautiful temple on the water. Be aware if you are claustrophobic that the cave height can get very low and you need to lie almost flat to avoid hitting your head in some points.

Before you head out on the boats there is a snack shop if you need food, cold drinks or coffee. Tam Coc Wharf also has boat tours but Trang An is much better.

Hang Mua (Lying Dragon Mountain)

Hang Mua is a steep mountain with a beautiful view of the surrounding area including the scenic river system and the ancient capital. The hike is challenging (especially in the heat of the day) so it is best attempted in the early morning. Also you should wear proper walking shoes and take plenty of water with you but be aware there is no toilet located at the top (there is a small shop part way up that sells ice-creams and drinks). Taking the left fork on your way up leads to a stone dragon statue. The other path has great views too so do both if you can.

You should also allow time for a bit of a wander around before or after: the complex has lots of photo opportunities and cute things to look at. There is also a cave at the bottom of the mountain that you can explore inside. Hang Mua costs 100,000 VND to enter and parking is free.

Tam Coc Town

Tam Coc town has touristy small town vibes but is nice to have a little wander around , particularly if there is a celebration going on. You can go shopping (make sure to bargain) or watch the colourful boats leave from Tam Coc Wharf. At night see if you can spot the Gaudy party buses – they are hilarious!

Bai Dinh Pagoda

Bai Dinh Pagoda is the largest pagoda complex in Vietnam. It combines an ancient and new complex and it takes about 30 minutes to walk from one end of the complex to the other (after taking an electric car to the entrance). Its free to visit Bai Dinh Pagoda but the electric car costs 30,000 VND per person. There is some incorrect information online about there being a vegetarian restaurant inside the complex. There are a couple of places where you can get cold drinks but no Restaurant. Don’t get stuck wandering around in the middle of the day heat starving with a toddler and unable to find food.

Thang Nham Bird Park

This is a slightly more off the beaten track destination and was definitely not busy when we went there. It’s best to come here in the late afternoon. Nothing is signposted so it can be quite confusing to find the boat to the birds – allow yourself time). After purchasing tickets you walk along a long flat bridge and then on your left is a short boat trip through a cave. After getting of the boat you can continue to the right of the bridge onto a little island which has lots of gorgeous photo spots. The main attraction is another boat journey to see all the birds return to their nests at dusk. Entry costs 120,000 VND per person (includes both boat tours and the entrance fee). We loved it here – it was relaxed and beautiful.

Next time I am here I would like to visit Van Long Nature Reserve. This is a much quieter place for boat rides (and is a bit of a journey from Tam Coc). The boat rides here are really cheap; only last about 1 hour and you have an opportunity to see the endangered langur monkey that is found in this area. Let me know what you thought of this place if you have been and any other must sees for Ninh Binh.

Erika xx