Category: Ecuador

Our Galapagos Cruise Itinerary

There are so many different cruises available in the Galapagos islands that It can be really difficult to choose just one: See my post here on How to: Plan your Itinerary to the Galapagos to narrow down what you would like to do.

Here is our itinerary for our cruise so you can see what the places we went were like – Bear in mind that the underwater visibility, wildlife and weather will vary from day to day so areas that may have been perfect on my trip may be a little less so on another. Everywhere we went was AMAZING and out of this world though so I’m sure you cant go too wrong!

We took the Golondrina which is one of very few very budget backpacker boats in the Galapagos but is the one with the best itinerary (in our opinion).

DAY 1

On the first day, we met the cruise at Baltra Airport to embark on the yacht and got settled. After having lunch on the boat we headed to Mosquera Island. This Island has a long stretch of soft white sand and many rock and tide pools. It has a flat look rather than the cone shape of the volcanically formed islands of the Galapagos.

Mosquera Island is a great place to stroll on the beach, snorkelling and enjoy the animal life. You are most likely to see sea lions and many shorebirds here. It is a quieter island with less tourists than some of the nearby locations.

DAY 2

On the morning of the second day, we visited Vicente Roca Point on Isabela Island via a small motorized boat. You are not permitted to land on the coast here. Vincente Roca Point is a large bay consisting of two seperate coves with amazing sea life. You may spot seahorses, sea turtles, rays, puffer fish, sunfish, sea lions, sharks, penguins, blue-footed boobies and nazca boobies.

Note: Although Isabela Island is technically inhabited (it has a very small rural settlement) the island itself is HUGE and there are many very isolated locations with lots of wildlife on the other side of the island that are inaccessible by land and too far for a day trip by boat as they are reached from the other side of the island (such as Vicente Roca Point) so this is a good location for a cruise to visit.

In the afternoon, the cruise visits Espinoza Point on Fernandina Island where you have a short hike along the coast to see lava flows and lava cactus, marine iguanas (during nesting time January to June), penguins, pelicans, and cormorants. After hiking there will be time to do some snorkelling from the beach.

DAY 3

On Day 3 your cruise will disembark at Urbina Bay on Isabela Island (again an area inaccessible by land). This bay lies at the foot of the Alcedo volcano. At Urbina Bay you will take a 2 hour walk passing shells and coral visible above the water along with a lot of wildlife: land iguanas, darwin’s finches, giant tortoises and flightless cormorants. After the hike you will snorkel surrounded by penguins and flightless cormorants.

  

In the afternoon, the cruise visits Tagus Cove on Isabela Island. We again take a walk here that begins from the shore and takes you high up a hill to provide incredible views over Darwin’s Lake (a round salt water crater) through a small forest. After the walk, you will take a boat around the cliffs and then snorkel in the cove. Around the water you are likely to see wildlife such as penguins, flightless cormorants, boobies, pelicans and Sally Lightfoot Crabs.

DAY 4

On the 4th day the cruise will visit Puerto Egas on Santiago Island. We will take a motorboat to land on the beach here. The beach here has gorgeous black rock formations and lots of wildlife. You are likely to see the Darwin finches, Galapagos hawks, marine iguanas, Sally Lightfoot crabs, fur seals and sea lions. You will be able to swim and snorkel from the beach here.

After lunch you will visit Sombrero Chino which for me was the highlight of this cruise. This is an island that looks like a wide brimmed hat and is very picturesque. The beach area is flat and rocky with lava tunnels and lava cactus all over the place. You will do a short walk then swim and snorkel here and the snorkelling is absolutely excellent.

DAY 5

Lastly, before departure your cruise will take you to the Charles Darwin Reasearch Station on Santa Cruz Island. Although this Galapagos tortoise breeding centre is in the main town of Puerto Ayora and easily accessed on an independent journey it was a useful last stop for us as we could leave straight for the town from here and didn’t need to return to the airport with the others on the cruise. Had the cruise finished elsewhere, we would have been dropped at the airport afterwards.

Let me know if you have been to any of these locations or if you have any suggestions for the best itinerary stops on our next cruise!

Erika xx

Itinerary: 3 days on Isabela Island

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Isla Isabela is the largest Galapagos Island but it only has a very small population and feels very secluded. It’s a great spot for wild, beautiful landscapes and up close and personal wildlife encounters. If you aren’t able to do a cruise on the Galapagos then the next best thing is to spend some time on Isabela Island. Its also a great option if you don’t like organised tours (like me). I don’t mind them on occasion but I definitely prefer to explore on my own.

GENERAL INFO

See my post here on travelling the Galapagos Islands for general information about the Galapagos.

As always, I recommend comparing accomodation and prices on booking.com. We stayed at Hostal Cerro Azul which was great as it had a kitchen for us to cook in and lots of places to relax.

There is no airport on Isabela Island – the only way in or out is via the small passenger ferries which travel at set times twice a day. Landing on Isabela Island requires an extra $10 docking fee (ontop of the cost for the ferry).

SUGGESTED ACTIVITIES

Concha Perla 

Concha Perla is a secluded little snorkelling spot right next to town. To get here, walk 10 mins out of town towards the main dock. Just before you reach the wharf; there is a little slightly hidden boardwalk with a sign that leads to Concha Perla – a short way along this boardwalk you will end up reaching a small ladder leading into the water.

Los Tuneles

Los Tuneles is a great snorkelling spot close to Isabela Island – tours head here daily. We took a half day tour with Rosadelco and it was well worth the trip! We saw seahorses, octopus, mating turtles, stingrays and dived into a cave filled with sharks. On the way back we also saw giant MANTA RAYS which was the coolest thing ever. They were larger than our boat.

Sierra Negra

Sierra Negra is the second largest active volcano in the world and it last erupted in 2005. Rosadelco (the same company as the tour above) takes a tour here so you can hike the volcano. It’s about a 5 hour hike with 45 minutes travel across the island each way. The landscapes are gorgeously wild.

Tortoise Breeding Centre and Pozas de Las Diablas

The Isabela Tortoise Breeding Centre and Pozas de las Diablas (some ponds with flamingoes) are just a short walk outside of town. You walk along a boardwalk that passes the 3 ponds with flamingoes to get to the breeding centre.

Playa Grande

Relax at the beach right in front of the town. Plenty of wildlife can be observed here such as sea lions, penguins and iguanas.

Bike to Muro de las Lagrimas

Hire some bikes for the day to bike to Muro de las Lagrimas to see a wall that prisoners built (at one point there were prisoners on Isabela Island). Supposedly thousands of prisoners died during the wall’s construction. The wall is about 5 km from town. There is a beautiful lookout point here above the wall. Follow the path leading up the mountain on the left side of the wall up until the final lookout post.

On the way back there are lots of stops to take along the bike trail: Cerro Radar, Cerro Orchilla, Tunnel de Estero (best visited at low tide), Playa de Amor, Pozas Verdes, and La Playita. There are signs along the way.

I hope you love Isla Isabela as much as I did!

Erika xx

Itinerary: 2 days on San Cristobal Island

This post contains affiliate links. If you use these links to book a stay or purchase an item I may earn a commission at no cost to you.

San Cristobal is the alternate ‘main island’ of the Galapagos. Not as populous as Santa Cruz but still feels like a centre of civilisation. San Cristobal is particularly picturesque – the town is right on a nice beach and it feels like a good place to have a vacation.

GENERAL INFO

See my post here on travelling the Galapagos Islands for general information about the Galapagos.

As always, I recommend comparing accomodation and prices on booking.com.

If you need to get into San Cristobal town from the airport its only a 20 minute walk into town. You may not want to walk with your luggage so taxis are also available.

SUGGESTED ACTIVITIES

Las Tijeretas

This is a lookout with beautiful views out to sea which leads down to a calm, sheltered cove where you can swim or snorkel. To get here, start from the Centro de Interpretacion and keep walking up the path that goes past. Follow the signs to Las Tijeretas on the right. When you reach the split in the path keep walking straight and up the stairs to reach the lookout. Once you have had enough time soaking in the views you can take the stairs down to the cove. The walk takes about 30 minutes.

When returning from the jetty at the cove, take the path rather than the steps back up. When this joins back to the previous path head right to walk back to town (this path goes along the waterfront past Punta Carola).

Punta Carola

Punta Carola is a beach just outside of town. It’s a beautiful sandy beach which is home to many sea lions lazing by the water. It’s a great spot to watch the sea lions going about their day or have a dip in the water. Playa Mann (closer to town) is also nice but smaller than Punta Carola.

Tour to Kicker Rock

Many companies take tours to Kicker Rock from Isabela Island. Kicker Rock is a rock that forms a narrow crevice which you can snorkel through. this Tour is most popular as you can see sharks swimming below you between the rocks – often these will be Hammerheads. It’s unlikely to see Hammerheads anywhere else unless you are diving. The day we went the water here was not very clear (nature is always a game of chance) but the tour was still great and we did spot a few sharks far below and come across some blue-footed boobies. We also stopped at a really lovely little beach where we saw pelicans and sea lions. The tour starts early (approx. 8am) and ends at 3 or 4pm.

Erika xx

Itinerary: 3 days on Santa Cruz Island

This post contains affiliate links. If you use these links to book a stay or purchase an item I may earn a commission at no cost to you.

Santa Cruz Island is the main inhabited island in the Galapagos Islands. It’s main town Puerto Ayora is warm, charming, very walkable and home to so much wildlife you will feel like you don’t even need to venture further afield (until you see the rest of the Galapagos!).

GENERAL INFO

See my post here on travelling the Galapagos Islands for general information about the Galapagos.

As always, I recommend comparing accomodation and prices on booking.com. We stayed at Hostal Vista al Mar which was lovely and right next to Laguna de las Ninfas.

It’s also worth mentioning that if you need to get to or from Seymour Airport that this is on a different island. Commuting here requires taking the airport shuttle from the airport, then a water taxi over to Santa Cruz, then a taxi or bus into Puerto Ayora (or the reverse to get to the airport).

SUGGESTED ACTIVITIES

Visit the Charles Darwin Research Station

Here you can observe the Galapagos Giant Tortoise and learn about the Galapagos Tortoises. The Research station also functions as a breeding centre so you will see tortoise babies also!

Have Dinner on Fish Fry Road

This is a collection of street food stalls selling and cooking fresh seafood. Head here for dinner and a beer. It’s pretty touristy but still more affordable than eating at a restaurant (and the seafood is amazing!).

Snorkel and Swim at Las Grietas

Las Grietas is a calm, deep inland lagoon where you can swim and snorkel. There isn’t a huge amount of wildlife here but if you snorkel you can see some big fish and it’s a cool place to explore.

To get here, take a water taxi to Punta Estrada/Las Grietas. Once dropped off there is a clearly marked path along the boardwalk and past some pink salt flats. Follow the path until it ends at Las Grietas (a 15 minute walk). There are 3 pools in the lagoon. You can carefully climb over the rocks at the end of the first pool into the second and then again over more rocks for the third pool (or dive down and swim through the underwater cave). There are often lots of fish swimming in this third pool (when it’s quiet). To get back to Puerto Ayora wave down one of the water taxis waiting offshore. 

Sit at the waterfront after dark

If you wait patiently you will see nocturnal marine animals attracted to the lights shining in the water along the waterfront. It’s calm and peaceful and even better if you bring a beer and take some time to relax under the stars or walk along the waterfront.

Visit the Fish Market

The best time to go to the Puerto Ayora Fish Market to see the action is 4pm. You can watch the local fisherman bringing in their catch and see the animals it attracts. The market gets swamped by birds, pelicans and sea lions hoping for a freebie. From late afternoon a little barbeque stand will cook any of the fresh fish for you.

Walk through Laguna de las Ninfas

Laguna de las Ninfas is a quiet estuary surrounded by 3 different types of mangroves and many birds. Its a very short walk from the pier (less than 15 minutes). Make sure to take some insect repellant.

Hike to Playa Tortuga

The hike to Playa Tortuga is short and relatively easy (apart from the extreme heat – I suggest going early in the morning) and the reward is well worth the trip. There are a couple of beaches here – the first is stunning and filled with marine iguanas but is too dangerous for swimming and there is also a calm lagoon for swimming in.

To get here, walk all the way to the west end of Charles Binford Street. At the end of the street there is a staircase up a short hill where the kiosk is to sign in and enter the park (it opens at 6am). There are no toilets at the beach so go here if needed. You will then walk along an easy, flat cobblestone path for about 40 mins. At the end of this path, turn right and walk for approximately 15 minutes and you will have reached Playa Tortuga. Continue up the sand another 1 km or so and you will find a beautiful shaded lagoon half hidden behind the last section of beach. The walk is approximately 1 hour 30 minutes each way.

Erika xx

Must See Spots in Ecuador

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Ecuador is one of the somewhat underrated countries in South America. Its too peaceful to be notorious like Colombia and Venezuela and its not a tourist hotspot like Peru, Brazil, Argentina and Chile. The Galapagos Islands are famous of course – but they are so out-of-this-world that they feel like a country in their own right and therefore sometimes left out of references to Ecuador as a tourist spot. Also, the Galapagos aren’t huge on the backpacker trail which is often how South America is explored as they are just so damn expensive to visit.

I hope to show you in this post why you just have to get to Ecuador right now as it is such a chill place with a great vibe! Oh and make the Galapagos Islands a must do even if you have to sell a kidney (JJ but not really).

Otavalo

Otavalo is an easy breezy mountain town. There’s not a lot to do here but relax! You may just pass through on your way to/from Colombia but Otavalo also has an amazing indigenous market which is the largest in South America and a gorgeous and easy hike around Lake Cuicocha nearby. Definitely worth a stop. See my post here for more info about visiting Otavalo.



Quito

Quito seems like any other big South American city from the outset (although I feel they all have something special and unique about them) but its actually quite charming. Relatively safe, quaint and relaxed. There are also some cool spots to visit around Quito such as the Equator (cheesy I know!). See my post here for things to do in Quito.



BaƱos

BaƱos is unexpectedly cool – don’t come here and expect to chill out in the mountains. It’s Ecuador’s home of adventure! Also, you need to be fit to manage all the hiking and biking and holding onto swings as you fly out over the valleys. As I said…adventure. Who’s up for it? Find out what I’m doing in the picture below here.

The Galapagos Islands

The jewel in Ecuador’s crown is the Galapagos Islands. It’s one of those places you visit and can’t believe its real. I really don’t need to go into detail about why you need to visit the Galapagos – just look at any photo and you’ll see. You can see all the beautiful things I spotted in the Galapagos in my photo essay here – I hope it inspires you to visit!.

What are you waiting for? Find a place to stay in Ecuador and get going!

Booking.com

Erika xx

The Galapagos Islands: A Photo Essay

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For practical tips on visiting the Galapagos Islands, please see my post here. If you just want to look at all the pretty pictures or are hoping for inspiration on where to take your next trip, please continue!

Everything about the Galapagos is gorgeous – you can’t stop taking photographs.

I hope these photographs have given you some insight into this magical place.

Erika xx

Itinerary: 12 days in the Galapagos Islands

This post contains affiliate links. If you use these links to book a stay or purchase an item I may earn a commission at no cost to you.

The Galapagos is one of those places you can’t believe still exists in this world. It feels like you are on another planet. It is a must-see destination for any nature lover or even anyone vaguely interested in nature. Unfortunately, the actions of a few people are slowly destroying this incredible ecosystem so please be a responsible traveller when you visit and help discourage those who take advantage of this magical place.

GENERAL INFO

Getting there and away:

Guayaquil is the gateway to the Galapagos in Ecuador and all flights leave from here – from Guayaquil you can travel to/from many places in Ecuador and beyond. The Guayaquil bus station is right next to the airport (15 minutes walk) but you can also taxi for a few dollars in daytime and it is advised to taxi at night due to safety concerns.

You have the option of flying into either Seymour Airport on Baltra Island (just off Santa Cruz Island) or the San Cristobal Island Airport. If you follow my itinerary below you will fly into the Galapagos via one airport and out via the other. If you want to follow the below itinerary but get return flights from the same airport you will need at least an extra day (possibly two) to make your way between islands. The Flight from Guayaquil is 2 hours.

Despite flights to the Galapagos technically being domestic, you are advised to arrive at the airport 3 hours ahead of time in case of delays. Once at the airport you will need to queue for a migration card (at the Consejo de Gobierno Counter); then have your luggage bio-checked. After you have completed both of these tasks you can then check in. You will need to pay approximately $120 USD per person in fees at the airport including for the migration card. 

Accommodation:

There are lots of basic accomodation options in the Galapagos Islands which cost about as much as a nice hotel on the mainland. However, in general the accomodation is clean and tidy and very conveniently located. You can compare options and prices on Booking.com.

Food:

Food is expensive in the Galapagos so be prepared to use up some dollar dollar bills going to any restaurant or bar. However, you can still eat well on a bit of a budget:

  1. Take advantage of happy hour – all the beachfront bars have happy hour where you can get 2 for 1 beers or cocktails.
  2. Buy your own beer from the local convenience store – they sell big bottles that you can return to the store for a partial refund.
  3. Bring plenty of packaged snacks from the mainland. Make sure not to bring any fresh goods as these are a biosecurity hazard.
  4. On Santa Cruz Island you can visit Fish Fry Road. This is a collection of street food stalls selling and cooking fresh seafood. It’s pretty touristy but still more affordable than eating at a restaurant (and the seafood is amazing!).
  5. Each island has a market where you can purchase fresh food and a convenience store or two. You can purchase simple ingredients and make some food for yourself if your accomodation has a kitchen.

Getting around:

The only way to get to and from the different populated islands in the Galapagos (unless you are on a cruise) is by ferry. When I say ferry I don’t mean a large public service boat but instead a small privately owned speedboat that will make the trip there and back in a day so the staff can be back home with their families overnight.

The trip is approximately 3 hours so its a bit of a journey. You can also only travel between Santa Cruz and San Cristobal or Santa Cruz and Isabela so if you need. to get from San Cristobal to Isabela your journey will take the whole day (no thanks!). You can see how I structure the itinerary below so you don’t need to do this.

The ferries will also cost you about $35-45 USD each one way (NOTHING is cheap here!)

You can have a great time though! If your ferry has one try to get the seat right up the top by the captain of the boat. You will have great views and if you make friends with the captain he may even let you drive the boat like my husband got to!

Top Tips:

  1. Get out some money beforehand if you need to pay for cruises or tours in cash (as there is a $600 USD a day limit in the Galapagos).
  2. Make sure you take every opportunity you get to experience what the Galapagos has to offer. I’m not a super fit person and I don’t particularly like snorkelling but you bet I took every opportunity to get in the water and experience the incredible sea life here. Sometimes I didn’t feel like it and I was EXHAUSTED after 12 days but I always enjoyed myself once I started and there was always an incredible experience I would have been really upset to have missed out on.

DAY 1

Fly into San Cristobal Airport in the morning; settle into your accomodation; and have a wander through town. After lunch, walk to Las Tijeretas. There is a lookout here with great views out to sea and also a calm cove that is great for snorkelling. On your way back, stop at Punta Carola – a sandy beach close to town where you will often find sea lions.

DAY 2

Take a full day tour to Kicker Rock today. This tour starts early and when we were here the tour company Nature Galapagos were happy to organise a slightly earlier return time so we could catch the 3pm ferry to Santa Cruz – you will need to jump on the ferry straight from the kicker rock tour so bring your bags!

In Puerto Ayora (Santa Cruz) head down to the main waterfront after dark – If you are patient you will see nocturnal marine animals attracted to the lights shining in the water. 

DAY 3, 4, 5 and 6

Take a cruise! Many of the cruises in the Galapagos are 4 days long and they allow you to travel to the uninhabited islands. This is a more expensive option but worth it even if you take a very basic cruise like I did – It’s all about the cruise itinerary anyway.

Most cruises begin from the airport on Baltra Island (closest to Santa Cruz) so you will need to make your way there to begin the cruise if you are already on the Islands.

DAY 7

If you took a 4 day cruise it will finish today. There is usually an early activity in the morning before the passengers are ferried to the airport – we chose a cruise that had its final activity in Puerto Ayora so that we wouldn’t need to make the trip to the airport and back again.

Once settled in Puerto Ayora head to Las Grietas which is a calm, deep inland lagoon where you can swim in the cool water and see some fish.

When you return from Las Grietas (around 4pm is the best time) head towards the Puerto Ayora Fish Market to watch the fishermen bringing in their catch and the animals this attracts. The market gets swamped by birds, pelicans and sea lions. From late afternoon a little barbecue stand will cook any of the fresh fish for you.

DAY 8

Get up early today and do the short hike to Playa Tortuga where you can see marine iguanas and swim at the beach. In the afternoon take the ferry to Isabela Island.

DAY 9

Early in the morning,  visit Concha Perla to do some snorkelling then take the Cabo Rosa Los Tuneles Tour with Rosadelco.

DAY 10

Take the Sierra Negra Tour with Rosadelco. This is a 5 hour hike so will be a long, hot day of hiking and therefore you likely want to spend the rest of the day just relaxing – you could visit the lovely beach right in front of the town called Playa Grande.

DAY 11

Hire some bikes for the day to bike to Muro de las Lagrimas to see a wall that prisoners built and visit a beautiful lookout point. On the way back there are lots of stops to take along the bike trail: Cerro Radar, Cerro Orchilla, Tunnel de Estero, Playa de Amor, Pozas Verdes, and La Playita. A slight detour just before returning into town is Pozas de las Diablas and the Isabela Tortoise breeding centre. Take the afternoon ferry back to Santa Cruz.

Tunnel De Estero

DAY 12

If you have some time before your flight, take a short walk to Laguna de las Ninfas – a quiet lagoon surrounded by 3 different types of mangroves and many birds. Fly out from Seymour Airport on Baltra Island.

I hope this Itinerary has given you an idea of how best to spend your time in the Galapagos Islands. If you need to restructure this due to cruise dates, cruise stops or flight availability please see my post on How to: Plan your Itinerary to the Galapagos for how to restructure or plan your visit differently.

Erika xx

What should you bring to the Galapagos Islands?

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The Galapagos Islands are a wonderland of things to see and do and being there is exhausting – the last thing you want to worry about is whether you have brought the right things with you! If you forget something it is VERY expensive to hire it here and usually impossible to purchase so make sure to stay organised with the handy list below.

Water steriliser

I am all for helping the environment (except when it comes to reducing my plane travel – as I live in New Zealand there isn’t really any other option to get anywhere – don’t judge me) and I used to always be disgusted at the number of plastic bottles we went through on a trip to countries without safe drinking water. With a water steriliser there is no longer any wastage and we can get clean water anywhere, anytime. We have the Classic Steripen and have never had any issues with it.

I also suggest taking a reusable water bottle as you will need it to sterilise your water in and drink from. The Nalgene water bottle is a great size and fit seamlessly with the Classic Steripen.

In the Galapagos it is even more crucial to reduce your waste and its also pretty expensive to purchase water bottles here too so a water steriliser is a no brainer.

Wetsuit

wetsuits are really expensive to hire in the Galapagos (around $20 USD a day) and you do need them as the water is generally quite cold here and you are spending a lot of time in the water. Although a wetsuit is a pain to lug around I highly recommend bringing your own (at least a lightweight one). On the plus side, the reason wetsuits are so expensive here is its really hard to import things like this onto the islands so on your last day in the Galapagos make your way down to one of the tour providers and offer to sell them your wetsuit – the majority will take you up on the offer and you are likely to even get more than what you paid for it – leaving room in your luggage for souvenirs!

Drybag

This is pretty self explanatory – you spend a lot of time in the Galapagos on boats or kayaks so its best to keep all your gear in a Drybag on these occasions to make sure it’s protected.

Quick dry towels

Travel towels are great to bring as you will be in the water multiple times a day. The quick dry towels you can purchase are lightweight; small enough to fit in your daypack or Drybag and you won’t need to bring as many.

Talcum Powder

I know, only old ladies and babies use talcum powder BUT it has this incredible feature that is key for the Galapagos. If you dust your skin in talcum powder after being at the beach THE SAND JUST FALLS RIGHT OFF. No more sand between your toes for days and no more sand in your hotel room or cruise cabin.

Ocean safe toiletries and sunscreen

The Galapagos is a marine reserve and a very delicate ecosystem. Tourism does have a devastating impact on the environment here so its our duty to ensure that the impact we have is minimal. Please take ocean safe toiletries with you and use these to reduce the amount of chemical run-off going into the ocean here. I know that ocean safe sunscreen makes you look like a ghost but suck it up and use it. Particularly with sunscreen you are applying multiple times a day and then getting in the water – think about how much of those chemicals you are exposing the ocean to. Then x that by thousands of people a day.

Packaged Snacks

Food is expensive here so bring in as much as you can from home or from mainland Ecuador. BUT remember to only bring properly packaged snacks as fresh items aren’t allowed due to biosecurity risks.

Camera

It’s such a pain lugging around a digital camera. BELIEVE ME I KNOW. But even with some of the best camera phones there is just no beating a good camera with a great lens. You need to take both your phone and camera if you want good holiday snaps – the convenience of the phone is fantastic but a camera will get you those shots that you can edit perfectly and blow up and hang on your wall to remember all the good stuff! You don’t want to miss out on capturing what the Galapagos has to offer on Camera!

Go Pro

A Go Pro is a necessity in the Galapagos to capture all those moments when you would prefer to keep your phone and camera safe and away from the situation. Some of the best photo opportunities here occur while in the water. We would have been so disappointed had we not brought our Go Pro to the Galapagos – in fact we purchased one specifically to use here.

Maps.me

Maps.me is an app rather than ‘gear’ but it is an essential travel item I must mention. Maps.me is a travellers DREAM. You can download maps of an entire region and save pins with your accomodation, attractions, restaurants, views, banks etc. anything you want to remember! Then, not only do you have these with any key details saved to your phone – Maps.me gives your location in real time without needing an internet connection – it even has most hiking trails accurately marked. This was really useful for independent travel in the Galapagos as I could always see where we were and how to get back to our accomodation.

Sarong

I always carry a sarong with me everywhere when I travel. Its great for covering up your legs or shoulders to stay out of the sun, a beach towel to lie on; keeping warm if the wind picks up; drying off if you have an impromptu paddle or swim in some water; and useful for mopping away some sweat. It’s also an emergency skirt if you get mud all over you and its so lightweight and easy to pop into your handbag or a daypack.

Let me know what else you would take and get packing!

Erika xx

How to: Plan your Itinerary to the Galapagos

The Galapagos is a dream destination for many people but because of the logistical challenges involved in planning a trip; the isolated location and the cost of visiting – it is often overlooked for more accessible holiday destinations.

So here are the important considerations for planning travel to the Galapagos.

Step 1: Figure out your budget

Although having a budget is important for any form of travel, having a budget for your Galapagos trip is KEY. The Galapagos Islands can be SO EXPENSIVE particularly if you have been travelling through mainland Ecuador before this.

Your budget will determine if you can afford to take a cruise or not, what sort of accomodation and activities you can pay for and how long that you can stay in the Galapagos as that cost just keeps on rising for every day that you are there (but is also exponentially better value).

To give you an idea of what you will need, our 12 day very strictly budgeted backpacker trip to the Galapagos cost approximately $6,000 USD for two people.

Step 2:

Decide what you are looking to get out of your holiday – do you want a relaxing vacation, and adventure or are you nature-mad and desperate to see everything the Galapagos has to offer?

If you are just after a nice holiday I would argue that the Galapagos is not the place for you BUT each to their own. You can laze around the pool and enjoy some of the finer things on some of the more luxurious Galapagos cruises BUT it comes at a huge cost so you will need to factor this in. You can get a luxurious cruise for a lot less elsewhere. If you want to pack in as many activities as possible and go to the places that you are going to encounter the most wildlife then this will come at a cost too – either through lots of day trips or a cruise that goes for longer or further into the unpopulated areas of the islands.

Step 3:

Figure out how much time you can spend here and add some more. This seems straightforward but if there is any way you can squeeze in a little extra time in the Galapagos then you should do it. We cut out a bunch of other things we wanted to do in South America so we could get 12 days here and it was such a great idea. Every day was packed full of exciting things to do and we wish we had had more time. Plus a lot of costs such as the flights etc. are one off’s and there are heaps of free activities if you can spend an extra few days so the longer you stay the cheaper each day is.

Step 4:

Make a decision as to whether you will do a Cruise in the Galapagos – this is a big decision as cruises are PRICEY. There are some day boats to some of the closer islands but mostly the uninhabited (and therefore more remote, wild and full of wildlife) areas are only accessible via cruise as the boats will travel overnight. Also this saves you time as on a day trip you need to travel there and back eating up a big chunk of your day. Each tour provider is limited in the frequency that they can visit each location so you will find that the tour operators have a variety of itineraries leaving on different dates. If you comment below that you would like to make use of it I am happy to share the comparison chart I used to choose a cruise.

Even if you choose do do a cruise, then you will need to decide for how long and if you will stay any extra days on the inhabited areas of the islands. I do recommend this also as you get a whole different experience of the place and there are lots of free things to do and areas with wildlife right next to these pockets of civilisation.

Step 5:

If you decide to spend some independent time on the islands and not just do a cruise then you will need to figure how how to be most efficient and cost effective with your time. Firstly, I would plan to fly into one airport and out from another so that you can visit 2 islands but save on a one way ferry (which takes up 3 hours and costs a lot). Secondly, don’t backtrack too much: Plan your cruise to start when you arrive at the airport or to be at the end of your journey so they will take you to the airport at the end. OR choose a cruise that will drop you in Puerto Ayora or on San Cristobal at the end.

Also, pick a few of your ‘must-see’ excursions or tours and make sure you mix these in with some self-guided exploring.

Let me know what your plan is for the Galapagos and if these tips were helpful in making your decision!

Erika xx

Itinerary: 3 days in BaƱos

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BaƱos de Agua Santa is the un-rivalled adventure capital of Ecuador. Not only is it the gateway to the Ecuadorian Amazon it is packed fill to the brim of exciting, adrenaline filled things to do with some hot springs to rest your weary muscles in once you are done. No wonder its such a popular stop for travellers making their way through Ecuador.

GENERAL INFO

Getting there and away:

BaƱos is just a short trip away from Quito. Buses take 4 hours and leave from Quitumbe station every 15 minutes before 7pm. To can also get to BaƱos from Guayaquil in 8 hours via bus (perfect for an overnight bus journey).

Accommodation:

 I recommend Community Hostel in BaƱos – they have a great vibe, organise lots of activities including bar crawls and serve up a wonderful breakfast! You can book through booking.com.

Food:

The best food we had in BaƱos was Arepas at ‘Arepas to Go’ – a takeaway joint run by a Venezuelan refugee. These are the BEST arepas I have ever tasted. Hands down.

The other must try dish in BaƱos is candy! The town is well-known for its Melcocha and there are candy stores all over the town where you can see it being made along with other sweets and treats. I polished off a whole giant rainbow lollipop and felt so sick.

Top Tip:

BaƱos is a great place to spend New Year (as we did)! Its the perfect mix of away from the hustle and bustle of a big city and the frustrations that come with this but popular and busy enough to be buzzing with New Year spirit and have great nightlife (its a bit of a party town).

Ecuadorian New Year is fascinating. There are two traditions that you have to see to believe: Firstly, on December 31st large dolls that represent the old year are ‘burned’ in bonfires in the middle of the street. This is the cleansing of the old year and represents starting anew for the new year – extra points if you jump over the fire as the dolls are burning. Secondly, related to this is the New Year ‘Vuidas’ (Widows of the old year). These are men dressed up in drag complete with makeup and wigs who dance in the street stopping cars and collecting small change for the new year party. On new year’s eve you can’t drive down any road without getting stopped by one of these ‘tax’ collecting groups.

SUGGESTED ACTIVITIES

Bike ‘Ruta de Cascadas’

This is a great activity rain or shine as you are going to get wet under the waterfall at the end of this journey anyway! The day we biked along the waterfalls was pretty poor weather but we still had a great time. I suggest getting up early and taking it easy so you can stop for as long as you like along the way and rest or explore (especially if you aren’t really into biking like me). You can hire bikes in BaƱos for about 15 USD per day including a bikelock etc. When you rent a bike you will be provided with a map of the waterfall route. The Ruta de Cascadas is a 16km ride to the town of Rio Verde but is downhill almost the entire way. Pickup trucks wait at the end and will take you back to BaƱos for a small fee. There are 4 key spots that you should stop at (but feel free to stop and explore anywhere you like!):

First stop: Cascada Agoyan – There is a zipline hereĀ 

Second Stop: El Manto de la Novia – Take the cable car for a bird’s eye view (2 USD, make sure you take the right cable car there are lots along the route).

Third Stop: Rio Verde – Bring bathing suit if its a nice dayĀ and you can pop in the water for a swim here.

Fourth Stop: Pailon del Diablo – It’s a strenuous walk to get to this waterfall but its worth it. You can hike (for 2 USD) right up to the falls and climb underneath them (you will get wet).Ā 

Visit La Casa del Arbol

Try to do this on a clear day as you are pretty high up in the mountains here. To get here, take the local bus for 3 USD or a taxi for approx. 15 USD (taxi’s are unmetered so confirm a price beforehand). Once dropped off there is a short 200m steep hike. The top attraction here is called The Swing at the End of the World and its definitely worth trying – my husband braved it even though he is afraid of heights! There are a few other activities and photo spots so its worth a little wander around and you will probably have to queue quite a while for the swing (its pretty popular!)

If you want an even bigger adrenaline rush head down the road another 3 km until you reach El Vuelo del Condor – this is an even bigger swing right out over the valley but you are properly strapped in to this one thankfully! Ask the management here to call a taxi to return to town or walk if feeling up to it (takes 2 hours but beautiful views).Ā Ā 

Piscina de la Virgen

You can soak in the Thermal Baths (USD 2 entrance fee) only 5 minutes walk from the centre of town. These baths have a nice view as they are located next to a waterfall. It’s a great idea to rest your weary muscles after your bike ride, calm your mind after swinging out over the canyons or to sweat out your hangover. Wear jandals as the ground around the pools and the changing rooms can get a bit gross.Ā 

Party in Zona Rosa

BaƱos is quite a party town so I definitely suggest having a night out here before you leave! There is a sign to the Zona Rosa on Ambato Street. You can Salsa the night away and make sure you have a big sleep in in the morning and a soak in the hot pools to recover from your hangover!

Let me know if your planning to go to BaƱos and if there’s anything you would add to this list!

Erika xx